How To Remove A Wr 125 Engine (step By Step)

Discussion in 'Howto's Tips and Tricks' started by Blazer, Apr 21, 2017.

  1. Blazer

    Blazer Member

    Thought i would post a step by step of how to remove an engine, for anyone who is thinking of saving some serious money.
    I am working from memory, so if i have left anything out or anyone has any tips that may help, then please feel free to comment.
    Tools needed ( Set of screwdrivers or screwdriver bits, a good socket set, a set of spanners, a set of allen/hex keys and a hammer preferably rubber.
    Ok! hear goes.
    1 Remove the plug located on the front of the cylinder arrowed in this picture 20160805_160232_resized.jpg to drain the coolant and disconnect the battery.
    2 Remove the seat, side panels, plastic frame guards and the plastics from the tank, you will need to remove the petrol cap to lift the plastics off.
    3 Unbolt and remove the petrol tank, be careful when removing the fuel pipe and wiring block. There is a valve fitted so fuel won't flow out when the fuel pipe is disconnected.
    4 Remove the airbox, loosen the clip that holds it onto the throttle body using a small allen key. Then remove the throttle body from the inlet manifold and just move it out of the way.
    5 Disconnect the wires from the injector and remove it, the injector is held in place with just one bolt, but a rubber grommet holds it in tight, so it will need a little wriggling to free it. The small plastic washer can be easily cracked, so take care when removing it. Here's a pic of the injector.
    6 Remove the front sprockets plastic guard then loosen the front sprocket nuts, loosen the rear wheel spindle and the adjustment screws so the wheel can be moved forward. Then remove the font sprocket and move the chain out of the way.
    7 Remove the clutch cable from the arm on the engine by bending the tab to release it.
    8 Unbolt the centre mount of the exhaust and the clip at the joint then undo the bolts at the head and remove the header pipe.
    9 Unplug the gear/ speed censor wire near the front sprocket, the generator, the spark plug cap the earth, t and the temperature gauge wires. Also remove the starter motor wire, there may be more so have a quick look round.
    10 Last of all, remove all the coolant hoses from the engine.
    11 Remove the front engine brackets, then remove the rear bottom engine mount bolt. At this stage you will need to remove the footpegs to allow you to draw out the long bolt, so if you are using the stand to hold the bike up then some assistance may be required.
    12 Once you are sure everything is disconnected from the engine then you can remove the right hand top engine bracket and slide the engine out. I found it easier to remove the engine with the stand bolted back on so the bike was tilted over as this pic shows.
    One thing you may notice is that i removed the expansion bottle, this was probably to allow better acccess to the airbox bolts.
    Clean second hand engine fitted.
    Re-fitting the engine should simply be a reversal, apart from topping up with coolant of course, and oil if needed. An engine swap can be done in less than 3 hours.
    Hope this helps.
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
    Draft_ likes this.

  2. Good to know, I have one with the back elastic gone, Im picking the legs will go soon too, I might need to remove the insert snaps to do the back though, hmm.

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